Or Nue is an exquisite goldwork embroidery technique that translates perfectly to needlepoint. Today’s post focuses on very simple Or Nue with standard needlepoint threads. Two examples are provided, illustrating a solid color and a pattern.

Very simply put, Or Nue combines pairs of threads on canvas with one thread covering the second thread. It’s similar to couching. However, I consider couching as a method to tack down a piece of thread on top of the canvas at strategic points to keep a shape, say attaching a piece of cording as a tendril. My version* of Or Nue covers the entirety of one of the threads in the pair with the second, creating beautiful ridges. * I use the expression “my version” because Or Nue is a elaborate technique in embroidery using silver-gilt (gold) threads, e.g. Japan Gold. A very simplified version of it is being shared here.

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The first example above illustrates a solid color Or Nue. I numbered two separate threads in a single sequence to illustrate how to navigate the multiple threads. It’s important to complete an entire row with both threads before you proceed to the next row.

To begin, add your base thread from edge to edge on a single row (black line, step 1-2). The base thread rests in the ditch between two canvas threads. Park the first thread on the side and bring your second needle up from the hole under the first thread and return the needle in the hole immediately above, gently pulling the base thread on top of the canvas thread above. Repeat this step across the row. When you get to the end with the second thread, park it to the side and return to your first thread. Add your next base thread from edge to edge and cover with the second thread. (The numbering may appear odd but remember you are picking up your work from where you last left the thread.)

The stitched sample uses size 16 Kreinik for the base threads (black lines) and Flair for every other row of the covering stitches (gray lines) and the same size 16 Kreinik for the remaining rows of the covering stitches (gray lines).

The next example illustrates how to create a pattern. The diagram below is virtually identical, except for the numbering for the threads on top of the base threads.

The diagram certainly does not portray the stitched sample on the right BUT represents the numbering strategy. Simply put, when using more than one color for the top threads in a row, add each color one at a time. I like to add the color with the smallest representation first and end with the color with the most real estate. For example, in the stitched sample, I added the silver first in any row that needed it and then filled in the cream threads.

Let’s talk about threads because one thread choice really matters. Earlier, I mentioned how Or Nue creates small ridges. The base thread is what makes that work. The base thread needs to be a roundish shaped thread that holds its shape. An ideal matte thread is Very Velvet, Petite Very Velvet, a large size Perle Cotton (#3 or #5), or single strand silk. Good metallic threads include Kreinik Metallics (size 12 or 16) or Silk Lame (18 or 13). You can cover those with virtually any other thread, including silk or cotton floss. I’ve used matte threads covered with matte, metallics covered with metallics, metallics covered with matte, and matte covered with metallics. Personally, I prefer it when a tiny bit of the base thread shows through so, as an example, when I’m using silk floss over a metallic thread, I keep the floss ply count low. It’s the best of both worlds and I love the tiniest bit of sparkle that emerges.

Or Nue looks so much more difficult than it is. It’s a beautiful technique for rugs, bags, hats, purses, baskets…anything requiring a subtle texture and/or an elegant touch.

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I hope you have the perfect spot for this stitch! Please enjoy! Have a wonderful #whimsicalwednesday!

A Note about Diagrams
I use color in diagrams to make them as clear as possible. The primary function of different colored lines is to illustrate a stitch sequence. For example, layering of colors demonstrates you add them in that order. They can also provide ideas on how to integrate additional threads (one line for each color). Or, you can use the same thread for all color lines. That's where I encourage you to use your imagination for the space you are stitching!

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